Monday, January 20, 2014

ISRAEL & PALESTINE __ Land of Contradictions Tel Aviv

A line well fitting to Shimshon's place "love yourself, love others"

Shimshon in his kitchen

Creative and elaborate graffiti covering the walls of Tel Aviv 

Cooking shakshuka at Dr.Shakshuka

Ottoman fountain in old Jaffa

A lunch-spot serving mainly to workers


Our last dinner was at a Georgian restaurant-bar called Nanushka

We left the hotel in the morning in search of a cozy breakfast spot. Walking through the Yemenite Quarter close by to our hotel, which is the oldest neighborhood of Tel Aviv that was originally founded by the Jewish immigrants from Yemen and today is occupied mainly by the low and mid-income families, we came upon a small restaurant called Milkyway that fit our criteria. Owner of the restaurant Shimshon prepares all the dishes himself for the workers that frequent the place for lunch. Shimshon, with a big grin on his face, points to the pictures of cows hanging on the wall and explains us that he only serves vegetarian dishes out of love for those animals. His friend, who seemed to be in his 60s just as Shimson did, was also helping him out without tiring himself out too much. Obviously he wasn’t there to work but rather to have a good time with the joints they were smoking constantly. The place looked like the last surviving hangout of the flower children with Shimshon’s pictures from his travels to India, Cuba and other places decorating the walls, customers going into the kitchen comfortably to dish themselves up with some food, and everyone including the customers and the owner puffing on their joints. As hard as it was to farewell with Shimshon, we finally did and started exploring the city. Our first stop was the Carmel Market and the artisans fair that is set up twice a week as part of it. We were very impressed by the creativity and artistry of the Israeli craftmen at the bazaar where many elegant pieces of jewellery and other objects of interesting design were being sold. From there we walked through the Neve Tzedek neighborhood with its rustic houses and fancy shops, and later made our way once again to old Jaffa to see it in daylight this time. We first checked out Dr.Shakshuka, famous for its (yes, you guessed it right) shakshuka dishes which is prepared by mixing tomatoes, eggs and other ingredients of choice. Since it was something familiar to us we opted for other dishes on the menu such as couscous with vegetables and another dish with squash, beans and meat. We left the place well satisfied with the food. After wandering through streets filled with boutique furniture and clothing stores and art galleries we walked into one that had very interesting drawings. We met with the artist, who was a Frenchman living in Tel Aviv for the last 7 years. He had been to Turkey many times and had recently returned from his last trip to Turkey in the very same plane as the one that brought us there. The picture of a famous Turkish movie star of the 70’s on one side of his business card surprised us in a funny way. We got caught in a very heavy rain when we left the gallery to go back to our hotel. We took shelter at a bench that was covered with a canopy of densely grown ivy and enjoyed the view of Tel Aviv with its white sandy beaches and buildings all lit up illimunating the night sky. Tel Aviv is a pleasant city and one I could see myself living in with the beach resort feel it gives being situated right on the Mediterranean, its modern buildings, neighborhoods of different character, and secular, cosmopolitan residents. Due to the immigration of Jews from all different parts of the world, it’s possible to find people of all kinds of physical appearances in Tel Aviv. Thanks to this diversity we were mistaken as Israeli and were fronted with questions in Hebrew many times during our stay. Another nice and interesting surprise was almost everyday running into Israelis speaking either a few words or sometimes fluently in Turkish, because of the high number of Jews immigrating from Turkey and settling there.

We had a few hours to spend before heading over to the airport on our last day. Even though we had planned on visiting the Diaspora Museum, both Benoit and I had set our minds and hearts on visiting Shimshon again and spending the last hours by enjoying his fun company.  Realizing what we had in mind Aysun was nice enough to comply with it, so once again we got beamed to the Milkyway galaxy. After a long breakfast, numerous treats and a pleasant chat about politics, music, and traveling we said our farewells for one last time to Shimshon. Before leaving for airport we bought ourselves some of the cardamom flavored coffee that is widely consumed in Israel, a few music CDs recommended by Shimshon, and a few bottles of the Israeli wine that highly satisfied us every time. Even though most of the wine we tasted in Israel were mass produced, common market products, they were higher in quality and much better tasting compared to the ones in the same price category in Turkey.  Just the thought of trying some of the finer boutique production wines fills me with joy and excitement. My call to the millions who are reading this blog: import these wine to Turkey, you will earn both the money and many blessings!!


Rather than its geological, archaeological or architectural beauties, the trip to Israel and Palestine was enlightening and educative with its cultural diversity, conflicts and contradictions. It was productive in both experiencing the current situation in person to get a better idea, and also questioning and reflecting on my own thoughts and beliefs through these witnessings. You start wondering how a government can be so cruel and fascistic when its people are so helpful and friendly; how people can go on with their daily life with joy when such a tragedy is taking place next door; how people can inflict such suffering on others when they themselves were subject to it just a few decades ago. Then suddenly it all seems awefully familiar to you, and you fall silent, and think…

No comments:

Post a Comment